Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Gorillas in the Mist/ Gorilas en la Niebla












So, I was gonna talk about the 9th of May before I went off topic saying how much Intrepid sucks. So back to the story. 9th of May. We left Uganda and entered Rwanda. We went to the Genocide Museum there, it was very interesting and moving, very well made and informative. We spent a couple of hours there, and then arrived in Ruhengeri. No tents for a few nights, yay! Here we are staying in a dorm room in a Mission... although we are not quite sure why it's a mission, cause all we can see are restaurants, conference rooms, internet cafe, a bar... Anyway, no tents for 3 days, life is good. Sleeping in the tent is no problem at all, it's just the pitching it up and setting it down every single day which gets a bit tiring.
The next day we had a free day to wander around town. I left in the morning on my own and spent all morning walking around town, talking to locals. Went to the gorillas conservation organization office, and to the gorilla tracking office, to the market, and shook hands with probably half of the kids in the whole town:) It was an awesome day, I really enjoyed having some time off on my own, and especially getting a chance to actually walk around a place (village, town, city, whatever) as opposed to just driving through it on the truck and watching it go by from a window. In the afternoon I hang around the "mission"- laundry, internet, reading, chilling.
11 of May. D-Day. THE reason for this first half of my Intrepid Tour. Gorillas tracking. YAY! Mountain gorillas are in danger of extinction, there's only a few hundred left in the world, and some of the gorilla families have been habituated to human contact and can be tracked and observed for 1 hour. It can be done in 3 countries in the world only: Uganda, Rwanda, and DR Congo. So this is the reason for all this traveling on the truck, to reach Rwanda, which I had read is the best of the 3 countries to do the trek. And it was SO worth it! It was AMAZING. We tracked a family of 12 gorillas, consisting of 1 silverback (the dominat male- HUGE, how can I describe the feeling of panic when he walked straight towards us, and I couldn't back up cause I had a tree behind me, and then a couple of metres in front of me he turned and walked past our side!!), some females, and 4 or 5 babies (so cute, the youngest was 6 months old, the oldest 2 1/2 years old). So we spent our INCREDIBLE hour observing the gorillas, they spent most of the time eating- taking the bark off the trees with their teeth, but we also got to see a couple of chest beating gorillas (including when a cute little one looked at us, stood up, and did his chest beating- poor thing, we all just laughed at him!), some running around and walking, playing with each other, and a baby one playing with a small plant, just holding it, stretching it out, and then swinging from it in circles, it was beautiful!! We are supposed to keep a distance of about 8 metres from them, but the reality is that the gorillas come up to us A LOT, so all you can do is slowly back up a bit, but they were still about 1-2 metres from us on several occassions. It was well worth the more than $500 dollars it costs, it was an unforgettable experience!!

Worthy of mention was our driver to and from the gorilla trek starting point: DJ Kevin, or as we nicknamed him, DJ Kev. What a knob! We had first hand proof that he sucks both as a DJ and as a driver: we had to get off the car and walk when he got "stuck" in a muddy road, without really trying much to get through, and we had the pleasure of discussing with him some favourite bands, such as Britney Spears, N'Sync, Backstreet Boys, Spice Girls.
When we got back to the Mission we found that the truck and none of our leaders were there, they arrived after about 30minutes, only for them all to get off the truck and jump into Dj Kev's car and leave. They were back 5 1/2 hours later. The truck was locked. No one could get in it. We weren't happy. And we let them know. It was just one lie after the other what we got from them, stupid excuses such as saying that they were gone cause they took the truck to be fixed (they overlooked the fact that the truck was at the Mission during the 5 1/2 hours while they were suppossedly fixing it), or that they didn't know that we were back from the gorilla trek (again, they overlooked the fact that they actually left with our driver so of course we were back). The shit hit the fan, there was a fight, but as usual they just lied and gave no straight answers.

Oh, and how could I forget! One of the nights we stayed in Ruhengeri there was a big storm. And we were sitting at the bar when we suddendly saw a car which was parked in the Mission on fire! It was an awesome sight, although maybe not too awesome for the car's owner. People ran down and had to break the window and put the fire out. Exciting night! The next day someone saw the car's owner driving the car around town as if nothing had happened, although the car looked crap.

Si, iba a hablar sobre el 9 de mayo antes de irme de tema diciendo que Intrepid es una mierda. Asi que de vuelta a la historia. 9 de mayo. Salimos de Uganda y entramos a Rwanda. Fuimos al Museo del Genocidio ahi, muy interesante y conmovedor, muy bien hecho e informativo. Pasamos un par de horas ahi, y despues llegamos a Ruhengeri. Sin carpa por 3 noches, yay! Aca nos estamos quedando en un cuarto todos juntos en una Mision... aunque no estamos muy seguros de por que es una mision, porque lo unico que vimos nosotros son restaurantes, internet, salas de conferencia, un bar.... pero bueno, de todos modos lo que importa es que no tenemos que dormir en carpa por 3 dias, la buena vida. Dormir en la carpa no es el problema para nada, solo que tener que ponerla y sacarlas casi todos los dias es un poco cansador.

Al dia siguiente tuvimos un dia libre para recorrer el pueblo. Yo me fui a la manana sola y me pase toda la manana caminando por el pueblo, hablando con la gente del lugar. Fuimos a la oficina de conservacion de los gorilas, y a la oficina de los tours de los gorilas, al mercado, y le di la mano a por lo menos la mitad de los chicos de todo el pueblo:) Fue un dia excelente, me encanto tener un poco de tiempo sola, y sobre todo tener la oportunidad de poder caminar por un lugar (pueblo, ciudad, etc), en vez de solamente pasar manejando en el camion y verlo por la ventana. A la tarde me quede en la "mision"- internet, lavar ropa, leyendo, relejada.
11 de mayo. El dia D. LA razon para la primera parte del tour de Intrepid. Caminata con gorilas, YAY! Los gorilas de la montania estan en peligro de extincion, solo quedan unos pocos cientos en el mundo, y algunas de las familias de gorilas han sido habituadas al contacto con los humanos y se pueden hacer caminatas para buscarlos, y mirarlos por 1 hora. Solo se lo puede hacer en 3 paises en el mundo: Uganda, Rwanda, y la Republica Democratica del Congo. Asi que esta es la razon de todo este viaje en el camion, para llegar a Rwanda, que segun lo que habia leido es el mejor de los 3 paises para hacer la caminata. Y valio TANTO la pena! Fue INCREIBLE! Visitamos una familia de 12 gorilas, que consistia de uno plateado (el macho dominante- ENORME, como puedo describir el sentimiento de panico cuando empezo a caminar directamente hacia nosotros, y yo no podia retroceder porque tenia un arbol atras mio, y despues un par de metros frente a mi, giro y nos paso caminando por al lado!!), algunas hembras, y 4 o 5 bebes (tan divinos, el mas chico tenia 6 meses, el mas grande 2 anios y medio). Nos pasamos nuestra hora ALUCINANTE mirando los gorilas, se pasaron la mayoria del tiempo comiendo- sacandole la corteza a los arboles con los dientes, pero tambien vimos un par de gorilas golpeandose el pecho (incluyendo cuando uno de los bebes divinos nos miro, se paro, y se golpeo el pecho- pobrecito, nos matamos de la risa de el!), algunos corriendo y caminando, jugando entre si, y un bebe jugando con una planta- la agarraba, la estiraba, y despues se columpiaba de la rama en circulos, hermoso!! Se supone que tenemos que permanecer a una distancia de 8 metros de los gorilas, pero la realidad es que los gorilas se nos acercaban UN MONTON, asi que lo unico que podes hacer es retroceder un poquito, pero igualmente los teniamos a 1 o 2 metros de distancia muchas veces. Bien valio la pena los mas de $500 que costo, fue una experiencia inolvidable!
Vale mencionar a nuestro conductor hacia y de vuelta de la caminata con los gorilas: DJ Kevin, o como nosotros lo llamamos, DJ Kev. Que tarado! Tuvimos prueba directa de que es un desastre como DJ y como conductor: tuvimos que bajarnos del auto y caminar cuando se quedo "estancado" en una calle barrosa, sin realmente haber intentado mucho tratar de pasar, y tuvimos el gusto de hablar sobre algunas de sus bandas preferidas, como Britney Spears, N' Sync, Backstreet Boys, Spice Girls.
Cuando volvimos a la Mision nos encontramos con que el camion y nuestros lideres no estaban, llegaron como media hora mas tarde, y enseguida se bajaron del camion y se subieron todos auto de DJ Kev y se fueron con el. Volvieron 5 horas y media mas tarde. El camion estaba cerrado con llave. Nadie pudo entrar. No estabamos contentos para nada. Y se los hicimos saber. Y sus respuestas fueron puras mentiras, excusas estupidas como decir que se habian ido porque tenian que arreglar el camion (se les paso el detalle que el camion estuvo en la Mision durante las 5 horas y media durante las cuales supuestamente lo estaban arreglando), o que no sabian que habiamos vuelto de la caminata con los gorilas (de nuevo, se les paso el detalle que ellos de hecho se fueron en el auto con nuestro conductor asi que obviamente que habiamos vuelto). Se armo el quilombo, pero como de costumbre solo nos dijeron mentiras y no nos dieron ninguna respuesta sobre nada.
Ah, y como me pude haber olvidado! Una de las noches que nos quedamos en Ruhengeri hubo una tormenta. Y estabamos sentados en el bar cuando de repente vimos un auto que estaba estacionado en la Mision prendiendose fuego! My copado ver eso, auqnue tal vez no tan copado para el duenio del auto. La gente salio corriendo y tuvieron que romper la ventana y apagar el fuego. Emocionante! Al dia siguiente alguien vio al duenio manejando el auto por el pueblo, como si nada, auqnue el auto estaba destruido.

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