Thursday, June 17, 2010

And so, the second tour begins.../ Y asi, comienza el segundo tour...

16th of May: At 6pm we had the meeting for the second half of the Intrepid tour. We are 16 in the group now, 6 of us from before (Leanne, Humberto, Karen, Chris, Megan and I) and 10 new people (3 canadians, 6 australians, 1 English). We couldn't believe it, we were SOOOOOOOO happy when we met our new tour leader, Moses. He is such a nice guy, really lovely, knowledgeable, friendly, and actually helpful! Such a change from the useless idiot we had before! We spent the whole meeting going "Oh my God" every time he said something, it's amazing how just from that initial meeting the difference was abysmal. The new people must have thought we were idiots or weirdos, cause we kept smiling and clapping at everything he said and when the meeting was over I actually told Moses "I love you", couldn't help myself. And our cook Henry walked into the room with the biggest smile ever, such a change from our last cook, I saw him smile twice in 16 days.
After the meeting we went out for a farewell dinner with all the people from the last trip, plus some of the people from the new group. It was cool, and sad saying goodbye to everyone. Back to the hotel, and stayed up with Leanne pottering around until about midnight.
17th of May: So, the second half of the Intrepid tour began. Up early and onto the truck. We drove out of Kenya, and into Tanzania. We stopped for lunch on the side of the road shortly after the border crossing.We stopped in Arusha for a while, at a shopping centre full of Wazungu (plural of Mazungu). After that we were supposed to head onto Mto Wa Mbu (literally translates as river of mosquitoes) to camp for the night, but it was getting late so we camped before that, at a Snake Park. We went to the bar for a while before dinner, full of other overland trucks, first time we see so many people at a campsite.
18th of May: After breakfast we took a walk around the snake cages in the snake park, they had some amazing ones, and we all got to hold one of the small ones. We then headed to Mto Wa Mbu. At about 10am we started a walk around the village with local guides. It was a great day, we were out walking until about 3:30pm, we had become so used to spending all day on the truck taking naps that we were exhausted and I was half falling asleep while walking. But it was a very very enjoyable day. We walked around the rice fields, banana plantations, hospital, people's houses. We saw how they make banana beer and tasted it- doesn't really taste like banana, but it does taste like beer. Luckily (or unlickily??) we tasted it before seeing the containers where it's kept, with its million flies in it. We saw the "passport showers" and "passport toilets" which they use, called that way because it looks like a passport photo when people are in them, cause you can see their heads sticking out behind the huts. I used the passport toilet, but it doesn't really work for girls cause once you squat to pee you can't see anything, I was looking forward to peeing with a view. We visited an artist community doing cool paintings and a woodcarving community. We had a traditional lunch cooked to us by the village people, which was absolutely delicious. After getting back on the truck in the afternoon we drove to Karatu, our next campsite town.


16 de Mayo. A las 6pm tuvimos la reunion para la segunda mitad del tour de Intrepid. Ahora somos 16 en el grupo, 6 de la primera mitad (Leanne, Humberto, Karen, Chris, Megan y yo) y 10 personas nuevas (3 canadienses, 6 australianos, 1 inglesa). No lo podiamos creer, estabamos TAAAAAAAAAAAAAN contentos cuando conocimos a nuestro lider nuevo, Moses. Es divino, un amor, sabe un monton, re buena onda, y hasta te ayuda en lo que necesites! Un cambio tan grande en comparacion con el tarado inutil que tuvimos antes! Nos pasamos toda la reunion diciendo "Wow, Por Dios" cada vez que Moses decia algo, es increible como solamente en la primera reunion la diferencia ya era abismal. La gente nueva debe haber pensado que eramos tarados o raros, porque nos la pasamos sonriendo y aplaudiendo cada vez que Moses decia algo, y cuando termino la reunion hasta le dije a Moses "te quiero", no me pude contener la emocion. Y nuestro cocinero Henry llego a la reunion con la sonrisa mas grande que se puedan imaginar, gran cambio despues de nuestro ultimo cocinero, lo vi sonreir 2 veces en 16 dias.
Despues de la reunion salimos a cenar de despedida con toda la gente del primer viaje, mas algunos del nuevo grupo. Estuvo muy bueno, y muy triste despedirnos de los del grupo anterior. De vuelta al hotel, y me quede despierta con Leanne boludeando hasta la medianoche.

17 de Mayo: Y asi, la segunda parte del tour Intrepid comenzo. Nos despertamos temprano y al camion. Nos fuimos de Kenya, y entramos a Tanzania. Paramos a almorzar al costado de la ruta al poco tiempo de entrar en Tanzania. Frenamos en Arusha un rato, en un shopping lleno de Wazungu (plural de Mazungu). Despues de ahi se suponia que seguiamos hasta Mto Wa Mbu (la traduccion literal es rio de mosquitos) para acampar por la noche, pero se nos estaba haciendo tarde asi que acampamos antes, en un Parque de Viboras. Fuimos al bar un rato antes de la cena, primera vez que vemos tanta gente en un campamento.
18 de Mayo: despues del desayuno fuimos a caminar a ver las jaulas de las viboras en el parque de viboras, tenian algunas impresionantes, y agarramos y tocamos a una de las chiquitas. Despues fuimos a Mto Wa Mbu. Tipo 10 am empezamos una caminata por el pueblo con guias locales. Estuvo buenisimo, estuvimos caminando hasta las 3:30pm, nos habiamos acostumbrado tanto a pasar todo el dia en el camion durmiendo siestas que estabamos agotados y yo me estaba quedando dormida caminando. Pero disfrute mucho, mucho el dia. Caminamos por las plantaciones de arroz, bananas, el hospital, las casas de la gente. Vimos como hacen cerveza de banana y la probamos- no tiene mucho gusto a banana, pero si tiene gusto a cerveza. Por suerte (o por mala suerte??) la probamos antes de ver los tachos donde la almacenan, con un millon de moscas. Vimos los "banios pasaporte" y las "duchas pasaporte" que usan, que se llaman asi porque se le ve la cabeza a la gente como si fuera una foto pasaporte cuando estan adentro, sobresaliendo por encima de las chozas. Yo use el banio pasaporte, pero en realidad no funciona para las mujeres, porque una vez que te agachas para hacer pis no se ve para afuera, tenia ganas de hacer pis con vista panoramica. Visitamos una comunidad de artistas que hacian pinturas muy buenas y una comunidad de gente que hacia trabajos en madera. Comimos un almuerzo tradicional que nos cocino la gente del pueblo, absolutamente delicioso. Cuando volvimos al camion a la tarde manejamos hasta Karatu, nuestra proxima parada de camping.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Mascot swap/Intercambio de Mascota


As we left Uganda to re enter Kenya I did the next mascot swap, again with Frankie, and English girl from the tour. I gave her the ghost/foot pin she had given me before (what goes around comes around) and I got her Mirinda bottle- originally it was her drinking bottle and used to work, but due to a hole it's now retired as a bottle and is serving solely as a mascot from now onwards.

Cuando nos ibamos de Uganda para volver a entrar a Kenya hice el siguiente intercambio de mascota, de nuevo con Frankie, una inglesa de mi tour. Le di el prendedor de fantasma/pie que ella me habia dado antes (todo vuelve) y ella me dio su botella de Mirinda- originalmente era su botella de la que tomaba y funcionaba, pero debido a un agujero ahora se jubilo de su funcion de botella y trabaja puramente como una mascota de ahora en mas.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Last few days of the first tour/ Los ultimos dias del tour















The next day, 12th of May, we left early for another day of driving. We left Rwanda, and back into Uganda again, making our way back to Kenya eventually. We spent the night in Lake Mburo National Park. The campsite area where we pitched our tents was full of warthogs everywhere. Having them around us and so close was a mixture of cool, disgusting, and scary, especially when they were blocking the toilet door and I couldn't walk past until they decided to move. There were also hippos in the lake, and we saw the most amazing thunder in the distance.
On the 13th we woke up very very early.... can't recall the time, but I think we had our small breakfast at something like 5am. We then went on a game walk for a couple of hours. We didn't see any cool animals really, just some antelope, birds, insects, footprints... but the really exciting highlight of the walk was when we heard noises from a bush nearby. We were shitting ourselves, not knowing what was in there, and then suddendly 2 warthogs come running out, and a few seconds later a third one also ran out in the opposite direction, we screamed like idiots, hilarious! After the walk we went back to the campsite and had a second, bigger breakfast: pancakes! Oh yeah, we were in heaven! After breakfast we left. We stopped at the Equator again, we had lunch there by the road, and we attempted to stand up an egg. Supposedly if you stand up an egg right on the Equator it will stay up, cause eggs always fall towards the Equator depending on which hemisphere you are in. It didn't work, the egg kept falling: we decided the Myth has been Busted... although the experiment was maybe not performed under the most rigurous scientific conditions.

After our egg failure we drove onto Jinja. Me and 4 others signed off the Intrepid tour when we were arriving Jinja and left on our own: Humberto from Mexico, Chad from Canada, Tim and Hayley from Australia, and me. The other 4 signed out cause they wanted to go whitewater rafting with a different company than the one offered by Intrepid. I signed out cause I was sick and tired of the leaders and needed a bit of time out to avoid becoming violent towards them, and for my own mental health. The feeling as soon as we got off the truck was one of absolute and utter freedom. We were so excited, we couldn't stop grinning and smiling and saying how good it felt, it felt like being on holidays, CUA! So we walked to the backpackers where the guys wanted to book their rafting, and from there they gave us a lift to their other backpackers, which was out of town, by the Nile River, and which was busier and cooler than the hostel in town. We had a night of celebrating our freedom, ate hamburgers and drank alcohol, and were happy as!
14th of May I slept until 10:40am, bliss! Checkout at 11, so after that I walked to the Bujagali Falls, which were right next to the hostel. There I sat down with some locals, looking at the Nile River and the falls (which are really just rapids, not much of a fall in fact). I had such a wonderful day, sitting and chatting with all the locals for hours. In the afternoon I walked from the falls to the Intrepid campsite, it took me over an hour, which was also fun cause I stopped several times on the way to talk with the kids who would just run out of their houses to wave at me and shake my hand when they saw me walking past on the road. At the campsite I pitched up my tent and hang out at the bar with the rest of the group, and had a delicious pizza. The other 4 guys who had signed out got back at nighttime, just in time to hear the argument between the leaders and the people who had remained on the tour, because they were supposed to take them to the Bujagali Falls but didn't do it. Oh yeah, back to the joys of Intrepid travel!
15th of May. Thank God, only 1 day left of this torture of a tour! Everyone's counting down days for this shit trip to end, some people are even keen to go back home and to work, that's how crap these leaders are! So, left Jinja in the morning and we drove to Eldoret. Eldoret is famous for its cheese. We stopped in town to visit a cheese factory, which we decided was clearly not the factory where we were supposed to have stopped- very dodgy, disorganised, they even tried to make us miss it but we insisted on it. At least we got to buy some ice cream. After that we went to the campsite, we had already stayed here for 1 night at the beginning of the trip. So, being our last night the tradition is that there's a special farewell dinner, generally a barbeque from what I've heard. Not this guys, they just gave us some cash and we bought our own dinner at the campsite. Thankfully they didn't join us for dinner, but instead cooked dinner for themselves but not for us! Shocker!

I stayed up late that night with Humberto and Chad, with the owner of the place, and with some other tourists. The first time we had stayed there Humberto and Chad had been told the story of The Lemon Tree by the owner. The story is: the owner planted some lemon trees, almost all of them on one side outside of the kitchen, and just 1 at the back. They all grew satisfactorily, except for this 1 tree which for some reason remained small. So the guy thought it wasn't growing cause it was the only tree not getting any ammonia, which all the others were getting cause people were emptying the kitchen pots with cleaning product in them on the front lemon trees. So he decided to start peeing on The Lemon Tree to give it some ammonia. So for the past 6 months he has been peeing on The Lemon Tree every day, and it is growing strong! I HAD to see this tree, of course. So I asked if I could see it, and we all went on an excursion and looked at it. When we got back to the bar I asked if I could pee on it. He said yes, so me and his wife walked back there, and we took turns peeing on it. What an honour! I was the first woman to ever pee on The Lemon Tree! After that Humberto and Chad followed, and the owner was so excited about this that he wants to start a tradition and hopes all tourists will go and pee on it. I feel I am part of history on the make! So it was a very late night, going to bed at 2:15am, and the next day waking up at 5:15am but it was well worth it.
The 16th of May we started very early, and got back to Nairobi before 1pm. We all had a very non-sentimental goodbye with our leaders, with no tipping and half of the people not even farewelling them. Back to the starting point, to the same hotel, where tonight we are meeting our new leaders and new group for the next part of the trip. I am undecided about whether I will do the next Intrepid half or not, leaning more towards no, cause this was such a negative experience. I will wait and meet the new leaders, and then decide based on that. After we arrived, I went over to the backpackers hostel where I had stayed initially in Nairobi, visited people there and used the internet, and then back to the hotel by 6pm for the Intrepid meeting.


Al dia siguiente, 12 de Mayo, salimos temprano para otro dia de manejo. Salimos de Rwanda, y entramos de nuevo a Uganda, de camino hacia Kenya otra vez. Pasamos la noche en el Parque Nacional Lago Mburo. La zona de camping donde pusimos nuestras carpas estaba llena de jabalies salvajes por todos lados. Tenerlos tan cerca nuestro a nuestro alrededor fue una mezcla de copado, desagradable, y miedo, sobre todo cuando estaban enfrente de la puerta del banio y no podia pasar hasta que finalmente se movieron. Tambien habia hipopotamos en el lago y vimos relampagos espectaculares a la distancia.
El 13 nos despertamos muy, muy temprano... no me acuerdo la hora, pero me parece que tuvimos un mini desayuno tipo 5am. Despues fuimos a hacer una caminata para ver animales por un par de horas. No vimos ningun animal copado la verdad, solo antilopes, aves, insectos, pisadas de animales... pero lo mas copado de la caminata fue cuando oimos ruidos de un arbusto cerca nuestro. Estabamos cagados de miedo, sin saber que habia en el arbusto, y de repente salen corriendo 2 jabalies, y unos segundos mas tarde un tercer jabali tambien sale corriendo en la direccion opuesta, gritamos todos, re tarados, muy gracioso! Despues de la caminata volvimos adonde acampamos y tuvimos un segundo desayuno mas grande: panqueques! Si, si, un suenio! Despues del desayuno nos fuimos. Paramos en el Ecuador otra vez, almorzamos ahi sobre la ruta, y tratamos de parar un huevo. Supuestamente si pones un huevo parado justo sobre la linea del Ecuador se queda parado, porque los huevos siempre se caen hacia el lado del Ecuador, dependiendo en que hemisferio estes. No funciono, el huevo se nos cayo todas las veces. Decidimos que es un Mito Refutado... aunque tal vez el experimento no se desarrollo bajo las condiciones cientificas mas rigurosas.
Despues de nuestro fracaso del huevo manejamos hasta Jinja. Yo y 4 personas mas firmamos para separarnos del tour de Intrepid cuando estabamos llegando a Jinja, y nos fuimos por nuestra cuenta: Humberto de Mexico, Chad de Canada, Tim y Hayley de Australia, y yo. Los otros 4 se salieron porque querian hacer rafting con una compania diferente de la que tenia el acuerdo con Intrepid. Yo me sali porque estaba cansada de los lideres del tour y necesitaba tiempo aparte para no violentarme con ellos, y para mi propia salud mental. El sentimiento compartido que tuvimos apenas nos bajamos del camion fue pura y exclusivamente un sentimiento de libertad. Estabamos re alterados, no podiamos parar de sonreir y reirnos, no podiamos parar de decir que bien que nos sentiamos, nos sentiamos como de vacaciones, CUA! Caminamos al hostel donde los chicos querian contratar su rafting, y de ahi nos llevaron al otro hostel, fuera de la ciudad, sobre el Rio Nilo, y que tenia mas onda y mas gente que el hostel de la ciudad. Tuvimos una noche de celebracion de nuestra libertad, comimos hamburguesas y tomamos alcohol, y fuimos muy felices!
14 de Mayo dormi hasta las 10:40am, paraiso! Checkout del hotel a las 11am, asi que despues de ahi camine a las Cataratas Bujagali, que quedaban justo al lado del hostel. Me quede ahi sentada con los locales, charlando con ellos, frente al Rio Nilo y las cataratas (que de hecho son solo los rapidos del rio, no hay ninguna catarata). Fue un dia buenisimo, charlando con los locales por horas. A la tarde me fui caminando desde las cataratas hasta el campamento donde estaba el grupo de Intrepid, tarde mas de una hora, y estuvo tambien muy bueno tambien porque en el camino frene a charlar con todos los chicos, que salian corriendo de las casas para saludarme y darme la mano cuando me viean pasar por la calle. Cuando llegue arme mi carpa y me quede en el bar con el resto del grupo, y me comi una pizza deliciosa. Los otros 4 que se habian separado del grupo llegaron a la noche, justo a tiempo para escuchar la discusion entre los lideres y los otros que se habian quedado en el tour, porque se suponia que los tenian que haber llevado a las cataratas Bujagali pero no los llevaron. Si si, de vuelta a la alegria de Intrepid!
15 de Mayo. Gracias a Dios, solo falta un dia de esta tortura de tour! Todo el mundo esta contando los dias para que termine este tour de mierda, algunos hasta estan con ganas de volver a sus casas y a trabajar, tan chotos son nuestros lideres! Nos fuimos de Jinja a la manana y manejamos hasta Eldoret. Eldoret es famosa por sus quesos. Paramos en la ciudad a visitar una fabrica de quesos, que decidimos que definitivamente no era la fabrica de quesos en la que deberiamos haber parado- muy sospechosa, desorganizado, hasta trataron de hacer que no la visitemos pero insistimos en ir. Por lo menos pudimos comprar helado. Despues de ahi fuimos al campamento, ya nos habiamos quedado aca por 1 noche al principio del tour. Siendo nuestra ultima noche, la tradicion es que hay una cena especial de despedida, generalmente un asado por lo que me habian contado. No con estos tipos, nos dieron plata y nos compramos nuestra propia cena. Por suerte ni vinieron a cenar con nosotros, pero se cocinaron su propia cena aunque a nosotros no! Increible!
Esa noche me quede despierta hasta tarde con Chad y con Humberto, con el duenio del lugar, y con algunos otros turistas. La primera vez que nos habiamos quedado ahi, el duenio del lugar les habia contado a Chad y a Humberto la historia del Arbol de Limones. La historia es: el duenio planto varios arboles limoneros, casi todos de un lado afuera de la cocina, y solo 1 en la parte de atras. Todos crecieronn satisfactoriamente, menos por este arbol de atras que or algun motivo se quedo chiquito. Entonces el duenio penso que no estaba creciendo porque era el unico arbol que no estaba recibiendo amoniaco, que todos los otros arboles recibian porque la gente que trabaja en la cocina tiraba ahi el agua despues de limpiar las ollas de la cocina con productos de limpieza. Asi que decidio empezar a hacer pis en El Arbol de Limones para darle amoniaco. Asi que durante los ultimos 6 meses hace pis todos los dias en El Arbol de Limones, y esta creciendo fuerte! Yo TENIA que ver este arbol, por supuesto. Asi que pregunte si lo podia ver, y todos fuimos a hacer una excursion para verlo. Cuando volvimos al bar pregunte si podia hacer pis en el Arbol. Me dijo que si, asi que yo y la mujer del duenio volvimos al Arbol, y hicimos pis en el Arbol en turnos. Que honor! Soy la primera mujer en hacer pis en el Arbol de Limones!! Despues de nosotras, Chad y Humberto tambien hicieron pis en el Arbol, y el duenio estaba tan copado que quiere empezar una tradicion y que todos los turistas vayan y hagan pis en el Arbol. Me siento que soy parte de la historia que se esta escribiendo! Asi que nos fuimos a dormir muy tarde, a las 2:15am, y al dia siguiente nos tuvimos que despertar a las 5:15am, pero bien valio la pena.
El 16 de Mayo salimos bien temprano, y llegamos a Nairobi antes de la 1pm. Tuvimos una despedida nada emotiva con nuestros lideres, sin dar propinas y la mitad de la gente ni se despidio de ellos. De vuelta al punto de partida, al mismo hotel, donde hoy a la noche vamos a conocer a los nuevos lideres y nuevos integrantes del grupo para la siguiente parte del tour. Yo estoy indecisa sobre si voy a hacer la siguiente parte del tour de Intrepid o no, me inclino mas hacia el NO, porque esta primera parte fue una experiencia tan negativa. Voy a esperar a conocer a los nuevos lideres, y despues decidire en base a eso. Cuando llegamos, me fui al hostel donde me habia quedado en un principio cuando llegue a Nairobi, visite a la gente ahi y use internet, y despues de vuelta al hotel antes de las 6pm para la reunion de Intrepid.