Three chilled days in Pokhara. It's a cute town. Very touristic. Lots of trekking options from here. Lots of shops selling trekking stuff. A lake. Mountains. Vey high mountains with snowy peaks. Beautiful. Relaxed. Laid back. People are friendly. Temperature's nice. Warm but not hot. Light jumper at night.
The first day we spent it walking around town, looking at shops, pottering around. I bought a rain cover for my backpack and a silk sheet/liner- finally!
The next day we woke up at 4:40am (aaargh) and went up to Sorangkot mountain to see sunrise (Pokhara is 8,000 metres above sea level, Sorangkot 15,000 metres).. It was worth it. Stunning view. And we had a clear day so we could see all the mountains with their showy peaks. After a late morning nap we head back into town and I went paragliding. It was awesome! Take off from Sorangkot, and we went up to over 20,000 metres. So peaceful, beautiful views! The guy that went with me has the Guinness World Record of the highest altitude ever reached paragliding (7,720 metres, in Pakistan).
Today we went to the World Peace Stupa (or Pagoda?? some signs said Stupa, others Pagoda... looked like a Stupa to me!). It was beautiful, it had images representing the 4 places and events most meaningful for Buddhism- the front one represents Sarnath, where Buddha gave his first speech (we were there last week, in India). We then went on to the Tibetan refugee camp (which was really just a town with some tibetan people living in it- handicrafts, shops, markets... uhm... the Monastery was nice). And then on to Devi's Falls and to a cave. Uhm... yeah... can I say they were crap? The falls wasn't very impressive at all, and my favourite bit was the empty plastic coke bottle which was floating in it, and stuck in between rocks so it didn't look like it was gonna be washed away any time soon. The cave- it was a damp, dirty, humid, smelled bad, with water dripping down evrywhere... it was a cave. No stalactites, no stalagmites... it did have a sculpture of a cow though! With a man sitting by it guarding it... no pictures of the cow allowed! But it was very funny. The rest of the day we spent it back in town, had an awesome lunch in a restaurant with lake views and then relaxed there for a couple of hours- hammock, sun, ipod, mango smoothie... no complaints at all.
Pictures of day 3 to follow. I haven't got them on the computer yet.
Tres dias de relajo en Pokhara. Es un pueblito divino. Muy turistico. Muchas opciones de trekking desde aca. Muchos negocios vendiendo equipo para trekking. Un lago. Montanias. Montanias muy altas con picos nevados. Hermoso. Relajado. La gente re amigable. La temperatura agradable. Calorcito pero no calor. Un sweater finito a la noche.
El primer dia lo pasamos caminando por el pueblo, mirando negocios, boludeando. Me compre un protector de lluvia para mi mochila y una sabana/protector de bolsa de dormir de seda- finalmente!
Al dia siguiente nos despertamos a las 4:40am (aaaaargh) y fuimos a la montania Sorangkot a ver el amanecer. Pokhara esta a 8.000 metros sobre el nivel del mar, Sorangkot a 15.000. Valio la pena. Vista alucinante. Y nos toco un dia despejado asi que pudimos ver todas las montanias con sus picos nevados. Despues de una siestita a la manana mas tarde, volvimos al pueblo y yo fui a hacer parapente. Espectacular! Despegamos de Sorangkot, y subimos hasta mas de 20.000 metros. Una paz, vistas increibles! El tipo con el que hice parapente tiene el Record Guinness del Mundo de la altura mas alta jamas alcanzada en parapente (7.720 metros, en Pakistan).
Hoy fuimos a la Stupa de la Paz Mundial (O Pagoda?? Algunos carteles decian Stupa, otros Pagoda... a mi me parecio que era una Stupa!). Lindisima, tenia imagenes representando los 4 lugares y eventos mas significativos del Budismo- el principal, al frente, representa Sarnath, el pueblo donde Buda dio su primer sermon (estuvimos ahi la semana pasada, en India). Despues fuimos a un Campamento de Refugiados Tibetanos (que en realidad solo era un pueblo donde vivien algunos tibetanos- negocios, artesanias, mercados... uhm... el monasterio es lindo). Y despues fuimos a las Cataratas de Devi y a una cueva. Uhm...si... puedo decir que eran una cagada? Las cataratas nada wow, mi cosa preferida fue la botella de coca de plastico vacia flotando en el agua, atascada entre las rocas asi que no creo que el agua se la fuera a llevar a ningun lado. La cueva- humeda, sucia, con mal olor, con agua goteando por todos lados... una cueva. Sin estalactictas ni estalagmitas. Aunque tenia una estatua de una vaca! Con un tipo sentado al lado vigilando, y no permitian fotos de la vaca! Muy gracioso. Pasamos el resto del dia de vuelta en el pueblo, comimos un almuerzo riquisimo en un restaurante con vista al lago y despues nos relajamos ahi por un par de horas- hamaca paraguaya, sol, ipod, licuado de mango... no me puedo quejar.
Las fotos del dia 3 las agrego despues, no las tengo todavia en la computadora.
Just the day after I wrote my last rat update, I saw more rats, in Varanasi. How many?- 2 or 3. My last day in India, and I was going so well! 2 confirmed sightings, 1 dubious one. Jane insists this last one was not a rat, as it was too big and had a fluffy tail. I still got my doubts... yuk.
Al dia siguiente de escribir mi ultimo post sobre ratas, vi mas, en Varanasi. Cuantas? 2 o 3. Mi ultimo dia en India, y eso que iba tan bien!! 2 confirmadas, la terera dudosa. Jane insiste que esta ultima no fue una rata, porque era muy grande y tenia cola peluda. Yo todavia tengo mis dudas... que asco!
Nepal, Nepal... what a change after India! It is so relaxed, laid back, people are so friendly. We've been in Pokhara for a couple of days now, taking it easy and enjoying the peace and quiet for a bit. The trip from India to Nepal wasn't too bad. Maybe because I had had several people telling me how long and crap it was, it wasn't as bad as expected. It took 1 train and 3 buses, but we made it from Varanasi to Pokhara in under 24 hours, so all good. We did have a bit of an issue with the money collecting guy on the last bus though. To start with, he lied to some Czech guys about how much the trip would cost, but that got sorted out and they paid the promised price. And then when it was my turn to pay he said he had no change, and that he would give me my change later. He played dumb, so after everyone had paid I went up to him and asked for my change. He said he had no change, despite having a shitload of bills in his hand and said "change later, later, wait, patience". So I waited. Until we got off the bus 2 and a half hours later. And that's when I asked for my change again and he said he did not owe me any change, that he never said that etc etc. And man, did I go off! I started swearing and yelling, calling him a fucking cunt (excuse the language), fucking liar, thief, etc etc. He got back on the bus and told the driver to start driving. So I ran next to the bus, holding onto it with one hand while hitting it with the other for about 100 metres, all the time swearing at him while he gave me a little smirk. Until I said I would report him to the police. So he asked the driver to stop and gave me my change. God, was I pissed off, it was almost a full 80 cents that he owed me you know! And I turned around to see the other 5 tourists (Jane, the Czech couple, and 2 Finnish guys) surrounded by about 20 locals, with a lot of yelling and arguing going on. So I joined in, for the customary battle amongst touts to see which taxi we would take, to which hotel, and just how much they would rip us off this time. And a lot of locals doing the touching us and our bags and not understanding the concept of personal space. It's all so much fun:) But apart from that one initial situation on arrival, we have only met lovely and extra friendly people here in Nepal.
Nepal, Nepal... que diferente a India! Es muy relajado, buena onda, la gente re amigable. Estamos en Pokhara hace un par de dias, disfrutando de la paz y tranquilidad. El viaje de India a Nepal no fue grave. Tal vez porque varias personas me habian dicho que era tan malo y largo, no me parecio tan terrible. Nos tuvimos que tomar 1 tren y 3 buses, pero llegamos de Varanasi a Pokhara en menos de 24 horas, asi que todo bien. Aunque tuvimos un pequenio problemita con el tipo que juntaba la plata en el ultimo bus. Al principio le mintio a una pareja checa sobre cuanto costaba el bus, pero lo solucionaron y terminaron pagando el precio prometido. Y despues cuando me toco pagar a mi me dijo que no tenia cambio, y que me daba el cambio mas tarde. Se hizo el boludo, asi que cuando todos terminaron de pagar le fui a pedir mi cambio al frente. Me dijo que no tenia cambio, a pesar de tener un manojo enorme de billetes en la mano y me dijo que "cambio despues, despues, espera, paciencia". Asi que espere. Hasta que nos bajamos del bus 2 horas y media mas tarde. Y cuando me pedi el cambio de nuevo ahi me dice que no me debia nada de plata, que nuna me dijo que me tenia que dar cambio. Y me saque! Empece a gritar y a insultarlo, diciendole los peores insultos en ingles (ver seccion en ingles para mas detalles) y diceinedole que era un mentiroso y ladron. El tipo se subio de nuevo al bus y le dijo al conductor que empiece a manejar. Asi que yo me puse a correr al lado del bus, sosteniendome de la puerta con una mano y golpeando el colectivo con la otra como 100 metros, todo el tiempo gritandole al tipo mientras me miraba con una sonrisita guachita. Hasta que dije que lo iba a denunciar a la policia. Y ahi le dijo al conductor que frene el colectivo y me dio mi cambio. Que bronca que tenia, eran como 80 centavos de dolar que me tenia que devolver, no es joda! Y cuando me doy vuelta veo a los otros 5 turistas (Jane, la pareja Checa y 2 tipos de Finlandia) rodeados por mas o menos 20 turistas, y mucho griterio y discusiones. Asi que me les uni, para la pelea de costumbre para ver que taxi nos tomamos, a que hotel, y por cuanta guita nos van a cagar esta vez. Y los locales tocandonos y tocando nuestras mochilas y no entendiendo la nocion de espacio personal. Muy divertido:) Pero aparte de esa situacion al llegar, toda la gente que conocimos en Nepal es super amigable y tienen la mejor onda.
Bueno, vamos de nuevo. Que decia? Varanasi es la Ciudad Sagrada de India, construida a orillas del Rio Ganges (Madre Ganga le dicen aca). Pero nuestro primer dia no lo pasamos en Varanasi, sino que nos fuimos a un pueblo a 10kms de distacias, Sarnath. Es una de las 4 ciudades sagradas del Budismo (las otras 3 estan en Nepal si me acuerdo bien...?). Fuimos al lugar donde Buda dio su primer sermon, y al arbol que crecio de una rama que sacaron del mismisimo arbol bajo el cual Buda tuvo su Iluminacion. Pense mucho en Linda (una companiera del trabajo, fiel seguidora del Budismo). Muy emotivo. Fuimos a varios templos budistas de distintos origenes- chino, tibetano, japones. Fuimos a un templo Jain donde nos explicaron sobre la religion y nos mostraron fotos. Parte de la creencia de los Jainistas es que las ropas impiden alcanzar el Nirvana, asi que los gurues mas grosos y ortodoxos andan siempre completamente desnudos. Vimos fotos de los gurues en sus visitas oficiales a distintos lugares, y hasta una foto de un guru reunido con el Dalai Lama, desnudo y abanicandolo. Otra cosa que no creen es en matar ningun tipo de organismo vivo, incluyendo insectos o bacterias- por eso no se banian, para no matar bacterias, y caminan barriendo su paso con un abanico con plumas de pavo real, para no pisar ningun insecto.
A la noche, ya de vuelta en Varanasi fuimos a ver una ceremonia en una de las Ghats (las escalinatas que dan al Ganges). Hacen esta ceremonia todas las noches, para purificar la Madre Ganga, y hacen ofrendas.
Al dia siguiente nos despertamos tempranito, tempranito, y fuimos a hacer un paseo en bote por el Ganges al amanecer. Impresionante, a lo largo de las Ghats mirando... mirando la vida diaria y privada de los Indios, expuesta en publico. Que en el Ganges se banian, se enjabonan, se lavan los dientes, lavan las ropas, hacen ofrendas, rezan, se purifican, tiran basura, nadan los bufalos, y queman a sus muertos. Hay 2 Ghats donde se hacen las cremaciones, y pasamos un buen rato mirando cuerpos quemandose, como preparan los cuerpos y los afeitan, y las ceremonias mojandolos en las aguas de la Madre Ganga. Muy impresionante. Despues me fui a encontrar con Folata- un amigo del colegio que esta viviendo en Varanasi hace como 7 anios. Pasamos el dia en su casa, charlando y recordando viejas epocas, y diciendo "que loco!" las vueltas de la vida.
El ultimo dia en Varanasi fuimos a ver unos cuantos templos, y despues todo el dia fue caminar y caminar a lo largo del Ganges. Y mirar y mirar a la gente, y de nuevo a las Ghats de cremaciones. A la noche vimos a una familia de 3 tipos y 2 chicos haciendo la ceremonia de purificacion. Lo mismo que hacen a gran escala con multitudes que vimos hace un par de noches, esa misma ceremonia es hecha por mucha gente mas, en pequenias ceremonias privadas. Nos sentamos a mirar, y nos invitaron a participar y comer con ellos las ofrendas. Un honor. De ahi, ya de noche, me fui a visitarlo a Folata un rato a la casa, y despues nos tomamos un tren tipo 11:30pm, camino a Nepal.
Ok, here we go again. What was I saying...? Varanasi is India's Holy City, built along the banks of the River Ganges (they call it Mother Ganga here). But we didn't spend our first day in Varanasi; instead we went to a town 10kms away, Sarnath. Sarnath is 1 of the 4 sacred cities for Buddhism (the other 3 are in Nepal if I remember correctly...?). We went to the spot where Buddha made his first speech, and to a tree which grew up from a branch taken from THE tree under which Buddha achieved Enlightment. I thought a lot about Linda (colleague from work, follower of Buddhism). It was very moving. We went to several Buddhist temples from different origins- chinese, tibetan, japanese. We also went to a Jain temple where they explained us about the religion and showed us photos. Part of the Jainism beliefs is that clothing is an obstacle to achieving Nirvana, so the most orthodox gurus are always completely naked. We saw pictures of the gurus during their official visits and even a photo of a Jainist guru, completely naked, fanning the Dalai Lama. Another of their beliefs is about not killing any kind of alive being, including insects or bacteria- so they never bathe or shower, not to kill bacteria, and they walk sweeping their path with a fan made of peacock feathers, not to kill any insects.
At night, back in Varanasi, we went to watch a ceremony (Puja) at one of the Ghats (the steps leading down to the Ganges). This ceremony is done every night, to purify Mother Ganga, and they make offerings.
The next day we had an early, early start, and went for a boat ride along the Ganges at sunrise. Incredible, along the Ghats, watching... watching the daily and private lives of Indians, exposed in public. In the Ganges they bathe, they wash themselves, they clean their teeth, do their laundry, make offerings, pray, purify themselves, throw their rubbish, buffalos swim, and they burn the dead. There's 2 Ghats where the cremations take place, and we spend some time watching the bodies burn, and how they prepared the bodies and shaved them, and the ceremonies soaking the bodies in Mother Ganga. What a sight... I then went to meet up with Folata- a friend from school who's been living in Varanasi for about 7 years. We spent the day at his place, chatting and reminiscing old times, and saying "how crazy!" life is and how our lives have turned out.
The last day in Varanasi we went and had a look at some temples, and then spent all day walking and walking along the Ganges. And watching and watching people, and again to the crematory Ghats. At night we watched a family, 3 men and 2 kids, doing the purification ceremony. The same ceremony which is done on a big scale for the crowds is also done by many many more people, in small and private ceremonies. We sat down to watch, and we were invited by them to take part and eat the offerings with them. It was such an honour. After that, and night time already, I went and visited Folata again, and we then got a train at about 11:30pm, towards Nepal.
Just a brief update. Haven't seen any more rats since my one and only in Jodhpur train station, big YAY! But I did see a mouse yesterday on a rooftop, yuck, but not quite as bad. But Jane's told me she had been seeing plenty of rats on the first 10 days we were in India, basically daily. I must have been looking the right direction cause I didn't notice them, or I am so bloody scared of them that I've just been repressing their sight. Whichever, I'm happy.
Ultimas noticias. No vi ninguna rata mas desde que vi mi una y unica rata en Jodhpur en la estacion de tren, gran yuppie!!! Pero vi un raton ayer, en una terraza, un asco, pero no tan malo como una rata. Pero Jane me dijo que durante los primeros 10 dias que estuvimos en India ella vio un monton de ratas, basicamente todos ls dias. Debo haber estado mirando en la direccion correcta porque yo no las vo. O es que les tengo tanto panico que directamente reprimo cuando veo una. Sea lo que sea, estoy contenta.
IT SUCKS!! Not the Holy City, the fact that I was just halfway through my post, and there was a power outage so I lost everything I had written. Don't have the energy to rewrite now, the Holy City story's gonna have to wait.
QUE MIERDA!! No la Ciudad Sagrada, sino el hecho de que estaba por la mitad de escribir el post y se corto la luz, asi que perdi todo lo que habia escrito. No tengo pilas para escribir todo de nuevo ahora, asi que la historia de la Ciudad Sagrada va a tener que esperar.
Last day in Khajuraho. We were catching a 2pm bus to Satna connecting with a 7:30pm train to Varanasi. The 2pm bus was cancelled. They told us this at 1:40, next bus leaving at 3pm. Too late to catch a shared taxi, they had all left by then. We stressed out a bit about whether we would miss our train connection. 3pm bus arrived at 3:30. Off we went. Got to Satna at 7pm, with plenty of time to catch our train, all cool. 7:30pm train arrived at 8:40pm. No need to worry, it's India after all.
Ultimo dia en Khajuraho. Nos ibamos a tomar un omnibus a las 2 pm hasta Satna, conectando con un tren a las 7:30pm hacia Varanasi. El omnibus de las 2 pm lo cancelaron. Nos avisaron de esto a la 1:40pm, el proximo salia a las 3pm. Demasiado tarde para poder tomarnos un taxi compartido, ya se habian ido todos. Nos estresamos un poco pensando que ibamos a perder nuestra conexion de tren. El omnibus de las 3pm llego a las 3:30pm. Y partimos en camino. Llegamos a Satna a las 7pm, con tiempo de sobra para tomarnos el tren, todo bien. El tren de las 7:30 llego a las 8:40pm. No hay de que preocuparse, despues de todo es India.
What can I say? Style, swish, true posh! We were very impressed. We had waiters pulling back our chairs when we arrived. The paper napkins were neatly folded and arranged into a glass. The plastic chairs had fabric covers on them. We had cushions to sit on. We got a candle. We got a little metal tray to put upside down on top of our drinks so the bugs wouldn't get into them. What more can you ask for? Food was delicious. And obscenely expensive. By Indian standards. Best restaurant we've been to in India. But we never saw the Italian chef and Dutch supervisor. Que puedo decir? Clase, nivel, elegancia! Muy impresionadas. Los mozos nos movieron las sillas para atras para ayudarnos a sentarnos. Las servilletas de papel estaban dobladitas prolijas y acomodadas en un vaso. Las sillas de plastico tenian fundas de tela. Teniamos almohadones para sentarnos. Teniamos vela en la mesa. Nos dieron una bandejita de metal para poder poner dada vuelta encima de nuestros vasos para que no se nos llenen de bichos. Que mas se puede pedir? La comida deliciosa. Y exorbitantemente cara. Segun parametros indios. El emjor restaurante al que fuimos en India. Pero nunca vimos al chef italiano y al supervisor holandes.
