Trip to Nepal/ Viaje a Nepal

Nepal, Nepal... what a change after India! It is so relaxed, laid back, people are so friendly. We've been in Pokhara for a couple of days now, taking it easy and enjoying the peace and quiet for a bit. The trip from India to Nepal wasn't too bad. Maybe because I had had several people telling me how long and crap it was, it wasn't as bad as expected. It took 1 train and 3 buses, but we made it from Varanasi to Pokhara in under 24 hours, so all good. We did have a bit of an issue with the money collecting guy on the last bus though. To start with, he lied to some Czech guys about how much the trip would cost, but that got sorted out and they paid the promised price. And then when it was my turn to pay he said he had no change, and that he would give me my change later. He played dumb, so after everyone had paid I went up to him and asked for my change. He said he had no change, despite having a shitload of bills in his hand and said "change later, later, wait, patience". So I waited. Until we got off the bus 2 and a half hours later. And that's when I asked for my change again and he said he did not owe me any change, that he never said that etc etc. And man, did I go off! I started swearing and yelling, calling him a fucking cunt (excuse the language), fucking liar, thief, etc etc. He got back on the bus and told the driver to start driving. So I ran next to the bus, holding onto it with one hand while hitting it with the other for about 100 metres, all the time swearing at him while he gave me a little smirk. Until I said I would report him to the police. So he asked the driver to stop and gave me my change. God, was I pissed off, it was almost a full 80 cents that he owed me you know! And I turned around to see the other 5 tourists (Jane, the Czech couple, and 2 Finnish guys) surrounded by about 20 locals, with a lot of yelling and arguing going on. So I joined in, for the customary battle amongst touts to see which taxi we would take, to which hotel, and just how much they would rip us off this time. And a lot of locals doing the touching us and our bags and not understanding the concept of personal space. It's all so much fun:) But apart from that one initial situation on arrival, we have only met lovely and extra friendly people here in Nepal.

Nepal, Nepal... que diferente a India! Es muy relajado, buena onda, la gente re amigable. Estamos en Pokhara hace un par de dias, disfrutando de la paz y tranquilidad. El viaje de India a Nepal no fue grave. Tal vez porque varias personas me habian dicho que era tan malo y largo, no me parecio tan terrible. Nos tuvimos que tomar 1 tren y 3 buses, pero llegamos de Varanasi a Pokhara en menos de 24 horas, asi que todo bien. Aunque tuvimos un pequenio problemita con el tipo que juntaba la plata en el ultimo bus. Al principio le mintio a una pareja checa sobre cuanto costaba el bus, pero lo solucionaron y terminaron pagando el precio prometido. Y despues cuando me toco pagar a mi me dijo que no tenia cambio, y que me daba el cambio mas tarde. Se hizo el boludo, asi que cuando todos terminaron de pagar le fui a pedir mi cambio al frente. Me dijo que no tenia cambio, a pesar de tener un manojo enorme de billetes en la mano y me dijo que "cambio despues, despues, espera, paciencia". Asi que espere. Hasta que nos bajamos del bus 2 horas y media mas tarde. Y cuando me pedi el cambio de nuevo ahi me dice que no me debia nada de plata, que nuna me dijo que me tenia que dar cambio. Y me saque! Empece a gritar y a insultarlo, diciendole los peores insultos en ingles (ver seccion en ingles para mas detalles) y diceinedole que era un mentiroso y ladron. El tipo se subio de nuevo al bus y le dijo al conductor que empiece a manejar. Asi que yo me puse a correr al lado del bus, sosteniendome de la puerta con una mano y golpeando el colectivo con la otra como 100 metros, todo el tiempo gritandole al tipo mientras me miraba con una sonrisita guachita. Hasta que dije que lo iba a denunciar a la policia. Y ahi le dijo al conductor que frene el colectivo y me dio mi cambio. Que bronca que tenia, eran como 80 centavos de dolar que me tenia que devolver, no es joda! Y cuando me doy vuelta veo a los otros 5 turistas (Jane, la pareja Checa y 2 tipos de Finlandia) rodeados por mas o menos 20 turistas, y mucho griterio y discusiones. Asi que me les uni, para la pelea de costumbre para ver que taxi nos tomamos, a que hotel, y por cuanta guita nos van a cagar esta vez. Y los locales tocandonos y tocando nuestras mochilas y no entendiendo la nocion de espacio personal. Muy divertido:) Pero aparte de esa situacion al llegar, toda la gente que conocimos en Nepal es super amigable y tienen la mejor onda.

Holy City Take 2/ La Ciudad Sagrada Toma 2

Bueno, vamos de nuevo. Que decia? Varanasi es la Ciudad Sagrada de India, construida a orillas del Rio Ganges (Madre Ganga le dicen aca). Pero nuestro primer dia no lo pasamos en Varanasi, sino que nos fuimos a un pueblo a 10kms de distacias, Sarnath. Es una de las 4 ciudades sagradas del Budismo (las otras 3 estan en Nepal si me acuerdo bien...?). Fuimos al lugar donde Buda dio su primer sermon, y al arbol que crecio de una rama que sacaron del mismisimo arbol bajo el cual Buda tuvo su Iluminacion. Pense mucho en Linda (una companiera del trabajo, fiel seguidora del Budismo). Muy emotivo. Fuimos a varios templos budistas de distintos origenes- chino, tibetano, japones. Fuimos a un templo Jain donde nos explicaron sobre la religion y nos mostraron fotos. Parte de la creencia de los Jainistas es que las ropas impiden alcanzar el Nirvana, asi que los gurues mas grosos y ortodoxos andan siempre completamente desnudos. Vimos fotos de los gurues en sus visitas oficiales a distintos lugares, y hasta una foto de un guru reunido con el Dalai Lama, desnudo y abanicandolo. Otra cosa que no creen es en matar ningun tipo de organismo vivo, incluyendo insectos o bacterias- por eso no se banian, para no matar bacterias, y caminan barriendo su paso con un abanico con plumas de pavo real, para no pisar ningun insecto.
A la noche, ya de vuelta en Varanasi fuimos a ver una ceremonia en una de las Ghats (las escalinatas que dan al Ganges). Hacen esta ceremonia todas las noches, para purificar la Madre Ganga, y hacen ofrendas.
Al dia siguiente nos despertamos tempranito, tempranito, y fuimos a hacer un paseo en bote por el Ganges al amanecer. Impresionante, a lo largo de las Ghats mirando... mirando la vida diaria y privada de los Indios, expuesta en publico. Que en el Ganges se banian, se enjabonan, se lavan los dientes, lavan las ropas, hacen ofrendas, rezan, se purifican, tiran basura, nadan los bufalos, y queman a sus muertos. Hay 2 Ghats donde se hacen las cremaciones, y pasamos un buen rato mirando cuerpos quemandose, como preparan los cuerpos y los afeitan, y las ceremonias mojandolos en las aguas de la Madre Ganga. Muy impresionante. Despues me fui a encontrar con Folata- un amigo del colegio que esta viviendo en Varanasi hace como 7 anios. Pasamos el dia en su casa, charlando y recordando viejas epocas, y diciendo "que loco!" las vueltas de la vida.
El ultimo dia en Varanasi fuimos a ver unos cuantos templos, y despues todo el dia fue caminar y caminar a lo largo del Ganges. Y mirar y mirar a la gente, y de nuevo a las Ghats de cremaciones. A la noche vimos a una familia de 3 tipos y 2 chicos haciendo la ceremonia de purificacion. Lo mismo que hacen a gran escala con multitudes que vimos hace un par de noches, esa misma ceremonia es hecha por mucha gente mas, en pequenias ceremonias privadas. Nos sentamos a mirar, y nos invitaron a participar y comer con ellos las ofrendas. Un honor. De ahi, ya de noche, me fui a visitarlo a Folata un rato a la casa, y despues nos tomamos un tren tipo 11:30pm, camino a Nepal.

Ok, here we go again. What was I saying...? Varanasi is India's Holy City, built along the banks of the River Ganges (they call it Mother Ganga here). But we didn't spend our first day in Varanasi; instead we went to a town 10kms away, Sarnath. Sarnath is 1 of the 4 sacred cities for Buddhism (the other 3 are in Nepal if I remember correctly...?). We went to the spot where Buddha made his first speech, and to a tree which grew up from a branch taken from THE tree under which Buddha achieved Enlightment. I thought a lot about Linda (colleague from work, follower of Buddhism). It was very moving. We went to several Buddhist temples from different origins- chinese, tibetan, japanese. We also went to a Jain temple where they explained us about the religion and showed us photos. Part of the Jainism beliefs is that clothing is an obstacle to achieving Nirvana, so the most orthodox gurus are always completely naked. We saw pictures of the gurus during their official visits and even a photo of a Jainist guru, completely naked, fanning the Dalai Lama. Another of their beliefs is about not killing any kind of alive being, including insects or bacteria- so they never bathe or shower, not to kill bacteria, and they walk sweeping their path with a fan made of peacock feathers, not to kill any insects.
At night, back in Varanasi, we went to watch a ceremony (Puja) at one of the Ghats (the steps leading down to the Ganges). This ceremony is done every night, to purify Mother Ganga, and they make offerings.
The next day we had an early, early start, and went for a boat ride along the Ganges at sunrise. Incredible, along the Ghats, watching... watching the daily and private lives of Indians, exposed in public. In the Ganges they bathe, they wash themselves, they clean their teeth, do their laundry, make offerings, pray, purify themselves, throw their rubbish, buffalos swim, and they burn the dead. There's 2 Ghats where the cremations take place, and we spend some time watching the bodies burn, and how they prepared the bodies and shaved them, and the ceremonies soaking the bodies in Mother Ganga. What a sight... I then went to meet up with Folata- a friend from school who's been living in Varanasi for about 7 years. We spent the day at his place, chatting and reminiscing old times, and saying "how crazy!" life is and how our lives have turned out.
The last day in Varanasi we went and had a look at some temples, and then spent all day walking and walking along the Ganges. And watching and watching people, and again to the crematory Ghats. At night we watched a family, 3 men and 2 kids, doing the purification ceremony. The same ceremony which is done on a big scale for the crowds is also done by many many more people, in small and private ceremonies. We sat down to watch, and we were invited by them to take part and eat the offerings with them. It was such an honour. After that, and night time already, I went and visited Folata again, and we then got a train at about 11:30pm, towards Nepal.

Rats II/Ratas II

Just a brief update. Haven't seen any more rats since my one and only in Jodhpur train station, big YAY! But I did see a mouse yesterday on a rooftop, yuck, but not quite as bad. But Jane's told me she had been seeing plenty of rats on the first 10 days we were in India, basically daily. I must have been looking the right direction cause I didn't notice them, or I am so bloody scared of them that I've just been repressing their sight. Whichever, I'm happy.

Ultimas noticias. No vi ninguna rata mas desde que vi mi una y unica rata en Jodhpur en la estacion de tren, gran yuppie!!! Pero vi un raton ayer, en una terraza, un asco, pero no tan malo como una rata. Pero Jane me dijo que durante los primeros 10 dias que estuvimos en India ella vio un monton de ratas, basicamente todos ls dias. Debo haber estado mirando en la direccion correcta porque yo no las vo. O es que les tengo tanto panico que directamente reprimo cuando veo una. Sea lo que sea, estoy contenta.

Holy City/ La Ciudad Sagrada

IT SUCKS!! Not the Holy City, the fact that I was just halfway through my post, and there was a power outage so I lost everything I had written. Don't have the energy to rewrite now, the Holy City story's gonna have to wait.

QUE MIERDA!! No la Ciudad Sagrada, sino el hecho de que estaba por la mitad de escribir el post y se corto la luz, asi que perdi todo lo que habia escrito. No tengo pilas para escribir todo de nuevo ahora, asi que la historia de la Ciudad Sagrada va a tener que esperar.

Khajuraho to/a Varanasi

Last day in Khajuraho. We were catching a 2pm bus to Satna connecting with a 7:30pm train to Varanasi. The 2pm bus was cancelled. They told us this at 1:40, next bus leaving at 3pm. Too late to catch a shared taxi, they had all left by then. We stressed out a bit about whether we would miss our train connection. 3pm bus arrived at 3:30. Off we went. Got to Satna at 7pm, with plenty of time to catch our train, all cool. 7:30pm train arrived at 8:40pm. No need to worry, it's India after all.

Ultimo dia en Khajuraho. Nos ibamos a tomar un omnibus a las 2 pm hasta Satna, conectando con un tren a las 7:30pm hacia Varanasi. El omnibus de las 2 pm lo cancelaron. Nos avisaron de esto a la 1:40pm, el proximo salia a las 3pm. Demasiado tarde para poder tomarnos un taxi compartido, ya se habian ido todos. Nos estresamos un poco pensando que ibamos a perder nuestra conexion de tren. El omnibus de las 3pm llego a las 3:30pm. Y partimos en camino. Llegamos a Satna a las 7pm, con tiempo de sobra para tomarnos el tren, todo bien. El tren de las 7:30 llego a las 8:40pm. No hay de que preocuparse, despues de todo es India.

Italian Restaurant/Restaurante Italiano

What can I say? Style, swish, true posh! We were very impressed. We had waiters pulling back our chairs when we arrived. The paper napkins were neatly folded and arranged into a glass. The plastic chairs had fabric covers on them. We had cushions to sit on. We got a candle. We got a little metal tray to put upside down on top of our drinks so the bugs wouldn't get into them. What more can you ask for? Food was delicious. And obscenely expensive. By Indian standards. Best restaurant we've been to in India. But we never saw the Italian chef and Dutch supervisor.

Que puedo decir? Clase, nivel, elegancia! Muy impresionadas. Los mozos nos movieron las sillas para atras para ayudarnos a sentarnos. Las servilletas de papel estaban dobladitas prolijas y acomodadas en un vaso. Las sillas de plastico tenian fundas de tela. Teniamos almohadones para sentarnos. Teniamos vela en la mesa. Nos dieron una bandejita de metal para poder poner dada vuelta encima de nuestros vasos para que no se nos llenen de bichos. Que mas se puede pedir? La comida deliciosa. Y exorbitantemente cara. Segun parametros indios. El emjor restaurante al que fuimos en India. Pero nunca vimos al chef italiano y al supervisor holandes.

Khajuraho

We got in at about 7:30m. After the customaru dodging of touts and rickshaw drivers we got ourselves into a hotel in the main drag and had some dinner. The rooftop restaurant was empy when we arrived. 2 minutes later, and until the moment we left, Indian men pottered around, chatted with us, pottered around some more. They were nice, we had some pleasant talks, but we did not get one minute alone.
Today we went to see the Khajuraho temples- the whole reason why we came here. They are famous for their carvings with Kama Sutra images. They were cool. There's 3 groups of them- the Western ones were amazing (the only ones you gotta pay to get into), the Eastern and Southern ones not a big deal.
We then bought our bus and train tickets combo to leave for Varanasi tomorrow arvo. And the plan for tonight is dinner at an Italian restaurant. There's lots of Italian restaurants here for some reason. Weird. Our pick is the one advertising "Italian Chef and Dutch Supervisor"- we'll see how we go.

Llegamos tipo 7:30pm. Despues de esquivar conductores de rickshaws y tipos tratando de convencerte de ir a su hotel, como de costumbre, conseguimos un hotel en la calle principal y fuimos a cenar. El restaurante en la terraza estaba vacio cuando llegamos. A los 2 minutos, y hasta que nos fuimos tuvimos tipos Indios dando vueltas charlandonos, dando mas vueltas. Todo bien, buena onda, pero no tuvimos ni un minuto a solas ni en silencio.
Hoy fuimos a ver los templos de Khajuraho- la razon por la cual vinimos aca. Son famosos por las imagenes del Kama Sutra. Hay 3 grupos de templos- los del oeste espectaculares (son los unicos para los que hay que pagar entrada), los del este y los del sur la verdad no gran cosa.
Despues nos compramos nuestros boletos de tren y omnibus para irnos manana a la tarde para Varanasi. Y el plan esta noche es cena en un restaurante italiano. Hay muchos restaurantes italianos aca por algun motivo. Muy raro. Vamos a ir al que tiene un cartel diciendo: "Chef Italiano. Supervisor Holandes". Ya veremos que onda...

It's a long way to Khajuraho.../ Un largo camino a Khajuraho

We got up at 6am to watch the Taj at sunrise. Jane did better than I, cause she stayed up after that, I just went up to the rooftop, took one look at the Taj, uttered "Oh, yeah", and went back to bed. But hey, at least I got up for it! We then caught a train in the morning, followed by a bus in the afternoon, to get to Khajuraho. So we spent most of the day traveling. The train wasn't bad, only about 3-4 hours. But the bus was bumpy, bumpy, bumpy. And slow. It took over 5 hours to do 170kms... that's Indian roads (and Indian transport) for you. Not much to tell about the day since we spent it traveling basically. Unless I tell about the stop we made cause someone wanted to buy a packet of smokes. Or about the other stop we made cause someone wanted to pee (although we had just departed 5minutes before from our last 30 minutes stop- I guess he didn't feel like peeing 5 minutes before, but then when he had to go, he just HAD to go). Or about the other stop cause a woman wanted to pee, and she just got off the bus squatted right next to it on the side of the road and peed, in full view of everyone on the bus (maybe that's why they wear the long saris?). Or about that other toilet we went to, where a woman just proceeded to squat and pee in the general toilet area (where the basins would be if there were any), as apparently she could not be bothered walking into one of the little toilet (latrine) cubicles. But hey, it's not all about toilets and peeing only. There was also that guy throwing up through the window on the bus. Although to be honest I was asleep when it happened so I didn't see it, Jane told me about it. So yeah, maybe after all my stories are all about toilets and peeing only.

Nos despertamos a las 6am para ver el Taj al amanecer. Jane se quedo despierta despues de eso, pero yo solo logre subir a la terraza, mire el Taj, dije "Ah, si", y me volvi a la cama. Pero bueno aunque sea hice el esfuerzo de levantarme! Despues nos tomamos un tren a la manana, seguido de un omnibus a la tarde, para ir a Khajuraho. Asi que nos pasamos la mayoria del dia viajando. El tren estuvo bien, solo 3-4 horas. Pero el bondi con muchos pozos, se movia mal. Y lento. Tardamos mas de 5 horas en hacer 170kms- asi son las rutas y el transporte en India. Asi que no hay mucho para contar sobre el dia ya que nos la pasamos viajando basicamente. A no ser que cuente sobre la parada que hicimos porque alguien se queria comprar un paquete de cigarrillos. O sobre la otra parada que hicimos porque alguien queria haer pis, a pesar de que hace solo 5 minutos habiamos terminado una parada de 30 minutos (se ve que no tenia ganas de hacer pis 5 minutos antes el tipo, pero despues cuando le dieron ganas, le dieron ganas). O sobre la otra parada porque una mina queria haer pis, y se bajo del bondi, se agacho y se puso a hacer pis justo al lado del bondi, a plena vista de todos los pasajeros (tal vez por eso las mujeres usan esas saris largas?). O sobre ese banio al que fuimos, en el cual una mujer se agacho y se puso a hacer pis en la zona general del banio (donde estarian los lavamanos si hubiera habido lavamanos), porque por lo visto le dio fiaca caminar hasta los cubiculos con banios (letrinas). Pero che, no se trata solo de banios y hacer pis. Tambien estaba el tipo que se puso a vomitar por la ventana del omnibus. Aunque para ser sincera yo estaba durminedo cuando paso, asi que no lo vi, Jane me conto sobre eso. Asi que si, al fin y al cabo tal vez si que se trata de banios y hacer pis solo.